Subject: Re: Tin Can Waveguide
From: Grant Stockly (grant@stockly.com)
Date: Wed Jul 24 2002 - 00:26:40 AKDT
You have to put the transmitting element inside the wave guide. It has to
be put in just the right place to get a good gain over a dipole...
A pringles can is by far not the best guide to use. I'd spend the time
and get a piece of thinwall aluminum pipe. Large steel
electrical conduit might work too. These waveguides don't have such a
long range when used without some sort of parabolic reflector. Maybe an
umbrella covered in aluminum foil duct taped to the top of the car? : )
I've also built yagi directional 23 element antennas. The thing ended up
being 5 feet long and too flimsy to put outside. Don't go past 11
elements.
As far as connecting them to your card, it helps to have the right one.
SOme lucent cards have the antenna port on the outside. I had to take my
DLink card apart and unsolder the shunt on one of the two antennas. It
looks like the Dlink 650 was intended to have an antenna port, but never
did. There are even landing zones for the antenna jack. You then have to
use some sort of coax to the card. Use 6 inches of small microwave low
loss cable for strain relief and then get yourself some good heliax cable.
You can blow the 30mw real quick using bad coax. I've talked to people
who couldn't maintain 4 miles at 1mbit with RG8, and when switched to
heliax type cable were ale to complete their 6 mile link at 5mbit.
Grant
> OK. I read the article on how to make a waveguide can, but how do you
> connect it to the access point? Or does it work just by virtue of it being
> near the access point?
>
> There is no place that I saw that talks about wrapping the wire around the
> original antenna or replacing it with this Can thing.
>
> Mike
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2a23 : Fri Jul 26 2002 - 12:24:05 AKDT